Colombia Las Margaritas Washed: Sidra at 1,800 Metres
Some coffees announce themselves with volume. This one does it with precision. A Sidra varietal grown at 1,800 metres in Bruselas, Huila, processed through a sequence of controlled oxidation, anaerobic fermentation, and temperature-regulated washing. The cup reads raspberry, wine-like body, grape sweetness, and trailing spice.
On This Coffee
| Origin | Bruselas, Huila, Colombia |
| Farm | Las Margaritas (14.5 hectares) |
| Producer | Diego Vergara and Edilberto Vergara |
| Altitude | ~1,800 masl |
| Varietal | Sidra |
| Process | Washed (structured anaerobic) |
| Tasting Notes | Raspberry · Winey · Grapes · Spices |
Origin and Region
Huila's cloud cover limits direct sun to roughly 3.5 hours per day, according to regional climate data. That persistent overcast, combined with high humidity at elevation, slows cherry maturation considerably. For dense, complex Sidra beans, this is exactly the right stress.
Las Margaritas sits in the Bruselas area, a mountainous corridor within Pitalito municipality. The Vergara family established the farm in 1990 with 18,000 trees. Today, around 90,000 trees cover the property. The shift toward specialty came after 2006, when the family participated in Cup of Excellence and recalibrated their approach: varietal selection over volume, structured processing over convention.
Sidra is the varietal here. Widely believed to carry Ethiopian lineage crossed with Bourbon-type structure, it has gained attention in Colombia for aromatic intensity and balance. It is not forgiving. Uneven ripeness or inconsistent handling degrades quality quickly. At Las Margaritas, choosing Sidra over commercial varieties was a deliberate bet on close oversight and careful nutrition management.
A common misconception about this region is that Huila produces uniform, low-altitude coffee in the mould of generic Colombian blends. In reality, Bruselas sits at 1,450 to 1,800 masl, with micro-farms turning out zero-defect specialty lots that bear little resemblance to commodity output.
Why Leonard Chose This Lot
The processing on this lot is worth understanding in detail. Cherries first go through a 36-hour oxidation period. They are then washed at approximately 40°C before pulping. After pulping, the parchment coffee is sealed in bags for 80 hours of anaerobic fermentation under controlled conditions. A final wash at 45°C removes residual fermentation byproducts and halts microbial activity before drying begins. Each stage is deliberately sequenced to manage fermentation intensity while preserving the clean, transparent character that washed processing is known for.
"I was looking for unique varietals and was suggested to try 2 Sidra varietals by my importer. When I tried it I liked it so much that I bought both of it soon after, This particular Las Margaritas, was really beautiful in flavour notes with candy like fruits and winey qualities. It was a cup that had impressed me in cup quality."
That candy-fruit character and wine-like depth are signatures of the anaerobic stage interacting with Sidra's inherent aromatic potential. The structured washing keeps it legible; nothing muddies the fruit.
Brewing with V60
Leonard's recipe runs a tighter ratio than many modern V60 protocols (1:15.5 versus the 1:16 to 1:17 range common in current practice). The effect is a slightly fuller body that gives the winey quality room to develop without thinning out the grape and raspberry notes.
Start with a 45-second bloom using roughly 40 to 45 grams of water at 90 to 92°C. Give the slurry a gentle swirl to saturate all grounds evenly. From there, pour in steady concentric circles, keeping the kettle close to the slurry surface to reduce turbulence. Two or three pulsed pours work well to reach 248 ml. Aim for a total draw-down around 2:35.
Grind medium-fine. If the cup reads thin or tea-like, go one step finer. If astringent or overly tannic, coarsen slightly.
| Parameter | Value |
|---|---|
| Dose | 16 g |
| Water | 248 ml |
| Ratio | 1:15.5 |
| Grind | Medium-fine |
| Temperature | 90-92°C |
| Time | ~2:35 (45s bloom) |
Brewing with AeroPress (Inverted Immersion)
The AeroPress inverted method offers a complementary angle on this coffee. Where the V60 highlights acidity and aromatic clarity, full immersion softens the edges and pushes the spice and grape notes forward. This approach, drawing on Barista Hustle's 2024 immersion protocols for washed Colombians, reduces turbulence to preserve the bright acidity while letting body develop through longer contact time.
Grind medium, coarser than the V60 setting. On an EK43, around #8; think coarse sand. With the AeroPress inverted, add 20 grams of coffee and bloom with 40 grams of water at 92°C for 30 seconds, giving a light stir. Then pour the remaining 260 grams over about 20 seconds with five slow clockwise stirs. Cap and steep for 1 minute 30 seconds. Flip onto your mug and plunge gently over 20 seconds. Minimal resistance on the plunge is the goal; if you are pressing hard, the grind is too fine.
| Parameter | Value |
|---|---|
| Dose | 20 g |
| Water | 300 ml |
| Ratio | 1:15 |
| Grind | Medium (EK43 ~#8, coarse sand) |
| Temperature | 92°C |
| Time | ~2:30 (30s bloom, 1:30 steep, 20s plunge) |
What makes Sidra different from other Colombian varietals?
Sidra is believed to carry Ethiopian genetic lineage combined with Bourbon-type structure. It is prized for aromatic intensity and balance, but it demands precise harvesting, consistent farm management, and careful nutritional control. At Las Margaritas, the Vergara family chose it specifically for its high cup potential, accepting the overhead that comes with a varietal this sensitive to handling inconsistencies.
Why does this washed coffee taste so fruity?
The structured processing plays a significant role. A 36-hour cherry oxidation period and 80-hour anaerobic fermentation in sealed bags develop fruit-forward compounds before the final wash halts fermentation. The result is controlled fruit character (raspberry, grape) that remains clean and transparent, distinct from the heavier fruit of natural-process coffees. Huila's slow maturation climate also concentrates sugars and organic acids in the cherry.
Can I brew this as espresso?
Yes, though dial in carefully. Start around a 1:2.5 ratio (e.g. 18 g in, 45 g out) at 93°C to keep the acidity bright without turning sharp. Expect the winey body to concentrate and the spice notes to become more pronounced. Pull times in the 28 to 32 second range tend to work well for washed light roasts with this level of density.
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